Adam Cohn - Vietnam & Laos Stories & Photography


Stories and photos from motorycling Vietnam & Laos 2011


There’s Sitll a Future in Plastics

As a child, my father would take me to the Seattle Seahawks game every Sunday during football season. We always parked in Chinatown and I remember walking past stores which sold little plastic stools and tables. I would always wonder to myself who would buy those tables.

I learned the answer the first time I visited Asia. I learned on this trip where those tables and chairs come from.

A shopkeeper chatted me up in Hanoi the shopkeeper eventually introduced me to her boss, a guy nicknamed Victory. Victory’s father founded one of the two largest plastics companies in Vietnam, Viet Nhat. After studying business management in Singapore, Victory joined the company. They currently employ 1,500 staff who crank out the millions of plastic stools, tables, chairs, and other products which are ubiquitous in Asia, and present in many Asian homes abroad.

You don’t need to count how many plastic stools there are in Vietnam to know that Victory’s family has done well in plastics. Victory invited me to spend the afternoon fishing with him and his father. They work every day of the week, but his father finds fishing to be a stress-reliever, so Victory jumps at every opportunity. We had a great conversation, translated by Victory over a feast of caught catfish, chicken, fries, and vegetables. Victory returned me to the city just after dark: they had to resume work again at dawn, while I explored Hanoi’s nightlife.

Hanoi is a perfect blend of old Asia and modern amenities and technology. The droning of a million motorcycles is a constant backdrop to the swirling masses. The next evening, Victory took me on a tour of Hanoi, from his perspective. He pointed out Bentleys and Mercedes, and explained that luxury cars fetch three times the US price in Vietnam. We passed new developments where homes quickly soar in into the million-dollar range, yet still had street food vendors in close proximity. Victory chatted on his iPhone 4 as we passed street food vendors whiling the time on their iPads. In plastics or other industries, it appears that people in Hanoi are doing well for themselves.

That evening we waited at one of the family’s homes for some others to join us for dinner. While I sat on an ornately carved wooden chair, Victory collected a handful of remotes. With a few buttons pressed, a screen descended, covering the window to the chaos outside, the lights dimmed, and a ceiling-mounted projector broadcast a pristine, high-definition image onto the screen. Perfectly-tuned speakers eliminated any reminder that there were several million motorcycles just outside buzzing past several million people, of all walks of life, seated on small plastic stools.

Wheels Keep On Turning ‘Round

This is, in fact, my idea of fun.

Motorcycle traffic in Hanoi

I chose Hanoi as the starting point for my motorcycle trip around SE Asia because Vietnam has the most restrictive rules about border-crossing with a motorcycle: it is legal to drive a motorcycle out of Vietnam, but Vietnam forbids bringing a foreign bike into the country.

Perhaps this photo is a good indication as to why.

While it appears daunting, driving in these conditions is actually a pretty natural feeling. The speeds never get very high, and everything flows like water. Where there is room, traffic fills the spaces. Staying close to bikes moving in the same direction will prevent others from interrupting your flow. Stay alert.

Hanoi Motorcycles in the Rain

I arrived believing I’d buy a Suzuki GN 125, as it had a larger engine for Vietnam. The Suzuki was a cruiser though, lacking any acceleration or torque in the lower gears, two necessary traits when in situations like the one above. I opted for a 100cc Honda WIN.

It took all my resolve to wait three days for a WIN when there was a Suzuki already tuned up and available, but I knew I’d be happier in the long run. Three days later, I had my wheels, and joined the droning hordes in Hanoi.

(Source: facebook.com)

Hello, Again, World

As I try out Tumblr for my first time, a note about where I’ve been, and where I am.

In January 2011, I left my job at Expedia to become a Kiva Fellow. I partnered with two microfinance institutions (MFIs) in Kigali, Rwanda, where I stayed for a bit more than 3 months.

While in Kigali, I helped the MFIs improve their processes, trained some branches on new agriculture loans. I audited the MFIs in terms of their loan products, technology systems, social performance, and to verify the data that they have on a sample of borrowers is accurate, to prevent fraud.

I posted an AMA (Ask Me Anything) on Reddit.com. If you’d like to learn from my experience as a fellow, about microfinance, or about living in and motorcycling around Rwanda, follow this link.

One of my favorite parts of the experience was the borrower verification. Here are some journals I posted after interviewing and photographing some of the borrowers:

Now that I have wrapped up with Kiva, I am traveling around Southeast Asia, which is where this blog will begin.